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Tahiti Unplugged

Simple is the fashion to continue the French Polynesian islands of Tahiti, Moorea, and Huahine: All you really need is a thatched hut with friendly owners and a beachfront location. On Tahiti, the namesake of the French Polynesian islands, pleasure lies in hiking magnificent green peaks and verdant valleys; browsing markets for embankment wraps, exotic fruits, and carvings; and wading far from shore in warm, gently lapping water All international jets land in Papeete, the hectic capital of French Polynesia's 118 islands. Although many tourists quickly switch planes (destination: isolation), the isle of Tahiti is worth more than than a layover. To begin with, it'south the nearly populated spot in the island nation, which gives visitors the clearest insights into modern Polynesian life.  The Gauguin Museum and the Museum of Tahiti and Her Islands, both on the west side, shed light on the free-spirited tribalism that seduced generations of artists and voyagers--and scandalized starchy missionaries. Tahiti's sea-facing hotels all have the same noisy defect: They're on the busy main road, which hustles along the prime coastline and ruins the serenity. Hiti Moana Villa, on the southwest coast 40 minutes from Papeete, feels mostly removed from the hubbub because of its position on a large lagoon. The Brotherson family unit runs the establishment with exactitude. Son Steve keeps the 10-yr-old property looking no older than two; mom Henriette, in her girlish flowered dresses, tends the vibrant courtyard gardens and koi pond. Three garden bungalows, done in polished wood and vibrant colors, are within earshot of the loud morning traffic, but they come with furnished porches suited to sundowners and journal writing. Upgrading to one of the four bounding main-facing bungalows near the pool and the boat ramp yields a quieter space with a kitchen and motion-picture show-window views of the lagoon--which, many days, is used for training by rowing teams in canoes. For cheap meals, there'southward a supermarket a mile down the road, and, a quick stroll away, a few roulottes (evening-merely food stands serving $9 dinners). Don't leave the islands without trying a basin of cold poisson cru, a traditional raw-fish dish that'south made with fresh coconut milk. Granted, Papara Village Family Resort'due south mountainside site requires a brusque car trip for any activity except jungle hikes. But having to bulldoze five minutes to the beach is a minor punishment when you consider the serenity and the stirring view: miles of surf, wee pink churches in the altitude, and a valley speckled with a k shades of dark-green. It feels like sacred country, and it is; several stone marae slab altars dating to the 1700s, before missionaries arrived, dot the property (along with a few cows). The resort is owned past Noel Chave, a young Polynesian whose family unit has lived on the spread for three generations. Noel routinely finds tiki statues in his lawn, which the local archaeology museum later on comes in and takes away. Two bungalows and three family-size houses, all made of concrete, have fully equipped kitchens, ceiling fans, TVs, and narrow balconies but aren't remarkable for much more their proficient value. Still, guests are free to consume whatever fruit they tin can pick from the many copse--lemon, mango, and grapefruit amidst them. Few properties on Tahiti are as tranquil, and few on any island provide closer admission to both bygone and mod Polynesian life. Punatea Village counters the Tahitian norm in many means. Its rooms are sheltered from the road; it faces bracing surf rather than a peaceful lagoon; and it'south big enough for kids to roam effectually, with a pond pool in a garden grove and a private waterfall nearby. A live-in cook prepares total dinners for $25 (attempt the tuna steaks with vanilla sauce) in a pavilion below the towering palms. The 4 unproblematic beach bungalows--bed, sofa, porch, no kitchen--are spaced for maximum privacy. As is frequently the case with family-endemic properties, in that location are also a few smaller, cheaper, motel-manner rooms sharing a edifice set back from the sea, merely they can't compare with the romance of renting a individual hut. The young, attractive Bordes family, who lives on the property with a menagerie of cats and dogs, built everything from scratch three years ago. Information technology's an hour'southward bulldoze from Papeete, about the village of Pueu, and a xv-infinitesimal drive from Teahupoo embankment, where the waves are cherished by surf pros. The tight-budget choice in ritzy Punaauia is Taaroa Lodge, on the principal road 20 minutes west of Papeete. The possessor, Ralph Sanford, is a middle-aged surfer who wanted a place where both his international surfer friends could hang out and paying guests would feel comfy. Three years ago, he ordered a few prefab chalet kits from New Zealand and set near creating his casual clubhouse on a grassy plot overlooking a adept snorkeling lagoon. The inspiring, jagged contour of Moorea looms on the western horizon like something Bloody Mary enticed the Seabees to visit. Big windows, solar power, a shared open-air kitchen, and a much-used barbecue grill give Taaroa the kind of laid-back vibe normally just institute on the outlying islands. Ralph happily loans out kayaks and sailboards to guests, and as an added bonus, water at the guild is potable (drinking untreated tap water isn't recommended anywhere in French Polynesia). For the most dedicated shoestringers, in that location'south a $24 dorm. - Hiti Moana Villa P.K. 32, Papara, 011-689/57-9393, papeete.com/moanavilla, bungalows without kitchens  from $85, bungalows with kitchens from $115 - Papara Village Family Resort B.P. 12379, 011-689/57-4141, from $100 - Punatea Hamlet P.K. 4700, Afaahiti, 011-689/57-7100, punatea.com, room $55, bungalow $90 - Taaroa Club P.Thou. 18, Punaauia, 011-689/58-3921, taaroalodge.com, room $50, bungalow $106 Moorea Removed but not likewise remote or rustic, Moorea is a eye-shaped island fringed with sandy-bottomed lagoons and languid resorts where honeymooners swim with stingrays and dissolve into mai tais. At commencement sight, Moorea evokes a storybook illustration of Peter Pan's Neverland. The interior is a jagged jumble of deject-crowned crags, while the coastline is encircled with placid coral reefs ideal for snorkeling and lazy canoeing. Simply 30 minutes from Tahiti by ferry, Moorea is the easiest of the outlying islands to achieve. A automobile ride effectually the coast takes about an hour. The Kindynis daughters are gone. Learn that at present, because when you tell whatever male Moorean that yous're staying at La Baie de Nuarei, the first affair he'll inquire is if y'all've seen the owners' beautiful offspring. To the frustration of single men across the island, the girls are attending higher in Europe, leaving French-born papa Tamagna and mama Tamara (a dazzler herself) to cascade their energies into their inn. They've spared no expense. Liberally embellished with whimsy-full-size mermaid frescoes in bathrooms, metal dolphin sculptures springing from showerheads-the lush enclave of iii secluded wooden homes feels more like an artist's retreat than a pension. Each home comes with a kitchen, Television, and a cozy sitting expanse. Guests can borrow boats and books or indulge in a treatment at the best-equipped spa outside the resorts, operated by the Kindynises as a sideline. The gated holding is on a articulate, shallow lagoon a few feet from Moorea'due south most pop public beach, Temae, and a 10-minute drive to the excellent restaurants at Melt's Bay-and it faces the same massive, underwater coral garden fronted by the Sofitel Ia Ora, which charges $230 more a nighttime. For more than a decade, Patrice Coucuret ran a pop B&B in Provence. In 2002, he tired of unexpected midnight appearances by weary route-trippers and, with his married woman and his poodles, decamped to a hillside in southwest Moorea, where guests always arrive announced and excited. At first glance, Fare Arana is très tahitienne: Each invitee gets a furnished patio and deck overlooking a lagoon, with the fragrance of flowers wafting well-nigh. But Patrice brought the French bonheur and pastis cocktails with him, which he uses to fuel lingering conversations in a poolside cabana. Faraway Provence, precious and countrified, fills the rooms. Each bungalow has a crockery-stocked kitchen with lace defunction and sea views, wood and wicker decor tastefully absolute with dried flowers, trim painted in periwinkle and cinnamon, and-about unusual-air conditioning. It'south adorable and inviting. The inn'southward name should take been the first clue: In parts of French Polynesia, arana means "nest." On the due north declension's Opunohu Bay, Fare Vaihere is a tiny outfit that strives for the dignity and service of a large resort. Cyril and Florence Morize, the French owners who opened the identify eighteen months ago, can even be spotted chauffeuring guests in their Country Rover on free eating place runs each evening. Their five smart bungalows, looking barely used, come up with porches, electric kettles, little fridges, and towels monogrammed in orange and white, the house motif. The one waterfront bungalow can be windy, but 3 others are safely inland on the clipped lawn. A fifth bungalow, with three bedrooms, has a full kitchen for practise-it-yourself petit-déjeuner (the four smaller rentals include continental breakfast). The Morizes' three good-natured kids periodically scamper by with their goofy family dogs. Just off the slender, 130-foot beach are the waters where Captain Melt anchored when he first landed in 1769; today you lot'll see mega-yachts and boutique cruise ships. Kayaks and snorkels are free, and you can fish off the private wooden pier. Or sneak into the pools at the fancy Sheraton, a curt walk up the road. (Everyone does it.) Hamlet Temanoha is ane of the few Polynesian hotels-at whatever price range-to colonize the bush. Just a 5-minute drive from the tourist zone downward an unpaved runway, Temanoha's six low-slung cabins accept kitchenettes, terraces, wooden furniture, and bathrooms walled with rustic stone. They're scattered on a plant-studded lawn with a central swimming puddle, trees dripping fruit and flowers, and fern fronds the size of shower curtains. The Castellani family unit, who owns the property, keeps a few chickens running around to gobble up intruding centipedes (a stinging pest that visitors may hear called "hundred legs"). - La Baie de Nuarei B.P. 605, Maharepa, 011-689/56-1563, labaiedenuarei.pf, from $154 - Fare Arana P.Yard. nineteen.v, Atiha, 011-689/56-4403, from $140 - Fare Vaihere P.K. xv.5, Opunohu Bay, 011-689/56-1919, farevaihere.com, double $150, for six $250 - Village Temanoha 94 Maharepa, 011-689/55-2500, from $107 Huahine Relatively few outsiders come to Huahine, an unspoiled paradise of vanilla plantations, thick jungles, wide lagoons, and world-grade surf. Really two islands linked by a short bridge, Huahine has just 5,700 residents and two isolated resorts. Flights from Papeete take about 45 minutes, and once the planes state, Huahine's sleepy airport frequently shuts down for the afternoon. The only decent place to stay on the southern end of Huahine, Alimony Mauarii proudly grooms a castaway vibe. Door handles are fashioned from branches, buffed tree trunks act every bit pillars, tubby tikis stand guard in the courtyard. Capped by thatched roofs rigged with flap doors to catch the breezes, the chalets are twice the size of their competitors; some even accept interior lofts. All have giant bathrooms done in inlaid coral, cracked tile, and, in a nod to honeymooners, the odd fertility totem standing at attention. The young owner, Vetea, entertains guests over meals like a surfer-boy version of Fantasy Island'south Mr. Roarke. He'southward respected for transforming a once-tired pension into a handsome, full-service resort. Unlike anywhere else in this cost range, the Mauarii aims to provide everything a visitor needs-convenient since Fare, the island'southward only real town, is a half-hour drive away. In that location's an activities concierge (wakeboarding, scooter rental, then on) and a gourmet restaurant, which, unusual for this island, serves all three meals. The eating place's prices are a little more than they have to exist, but the food's practiced. Annotation: Rooms book up early. Huahine Vacances, located where the 2 islands join on Maroe Bay, sells a packet bargain extraordinaire: For one price, you go a firm of your ain, plus utilise of the compact auto and the xiii-foot speedboat that come up with it. Bordeaux-born Michel Sorin arrived here on vacation in the early on '80s and never left. He had a vanilla plantation that got obliterated by a nasty-and extremely rare-storm in 1998. So he built three suburban-fashion ranch homes and opened them as a pension. Ii have three bedrooms, one has two, and all come up with spacious living/dining areas and giant terraces with views of the water. Each could easily delight a family of six, what with niceties like hairdryers, washing machines, cribs, ovens, and grills. Jacqueline, Michel'south Polynesian wife, will even babysit for $50 a day. A few doors westward, a competing outfit, Villas Bougainville, provides much the aforementioned package, only with more space and a position set back in greenery, subconscious from the h2o. Huahine's consistent waves attract die-hard surfers who stay for months, subsisting on well-nigh cipher. How do they do it? They stay at places such as Chez Guynette, a.k.a. Club Bed. By day, it'southward Huahine's unofficial nerve center for backpackers, who swat flies and nurse cold Hinano beers on the patio. By nighttime, information technology's a long-running, eight-bed crash pad operated by New Jersey-reared Marty Woolston and her teddy bear of a Polynesian married man, Moe. So what if it's dark and needs renovations? Who cares if yous don't get more than an efficiency-style room and a shared kitchen? Information technology costs merely $eighteen, and it'due south right at the port in Fare, a few doors upwardly from the simply supermarket on the isle, and so you won't demand a car. The best surf breaks are a short paddle away. At these prices, Guynette is what dropout fantasies are made of. - Pension Mauarii B.P. 473, Fare, 011-689/68-8649, mauarii.com, room $75-$90, bungalow $100-$150 - Huahine Vacances P.Thou. x, Maroe Bay, 011-689/68-7363, iaorana-huahine.com/en/huahine.html, two-bedroom house, motorcar, and boat from $205 a nighttime for ii or three people - Villas Bougainville B.P. 258, Fare, 011-689/lx-6030, iaorana-huahine.com/en/bougainville.html, two-bedroom house, car, and boat from $255 a night - Chez Guynette B.P. 87, Fare, 011-689/68-8375, iaorana-huahine.com/en/guynette.html, $18

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